Day 2 on the way: White Sea, dinner in Apatity and overnight in Murmansk.

Let's take a short turn towards Kem town. It is located on the bank of the river at the top of the Kem Bay - from there to the sea about 12 km more. On the sea shore there is a tiny village Rabocheostrovsk. From here go passenger motorboats to the Solovetsky Islands. Let's stop here for half an hour - to observe white whales and seals, to listen to the wind whistle, to breathe in the smell of the sea.
By the way, in 2005 the filming of the drama "Island" took place in Rabocheostrovsk. The scenery for the film by Pavel Lungin became the visiting card of the village.

Next to the pier there is a cafe "Karelian meal" - you're probably already hungry, so it's time for a tight lunch. Prices here are above average, but beautiful views of the White Sea and a good menu disarm.

You can stretch your bones and take a break at Panovo Lake. The coastline is built up with private houses and gardens. It is a favorite place for bathing of local kids and fishermen.

So, a solemn occasion! We cross the Polar Circle. Don't worry, you won't miss this moment: a stele with an observation deck symbolically separates the Arctic from more southern latitudes.

The scenery is getting more interesting. Here we are crossing the stormy River Pyrenga. This is an unusual river. Its 4-kilometre stretch from the dam to its inflow into Lake Imandra (you will just cross it on your way) does not freeze all year round. Why not? It's a big mystery. Either because of the floodgates or "guilty" of the streams flowing into the river. The fact remains that the river has open water all year round and this is a real gift for local fishermen.

I offer dinner in Apatity, in one of the best local cafes - "Jaga". The pizzeria pleasantly surprises with its stylish interior and food quality: fragrant pizza on a good fine dough has won the heart of more than one traveler.

Finally we're in Murmansk! The soft bed in the hotel will be a reward for long hours on the road. Sleep well: tomorrow begins your adventures on the Kola Peninsula!